15 Days In Myanmar 🇲🇲: The Hardest Country To Travel Around In 2025

Intro

I'm not quite sure where to start with this, as what I just experienced might have changed my life forever. If you have followed me for a while, I have no issues entering warzones, having been to almost every single one in the world. But this? This was a different ballgame. This was a different world. This was a different reality. I figured you deserve a breakdown.

Earlier This Year

Earlier this year, I embarked on a mission to Myanmar to visit a new friend of mine. He's a lovely guy, and also a powerful guy. While most influencers online will show you that Myanmar is "safe", I discovered that on my first visit. I was in the hands of a well-known guy, visiting Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, and Heho. At the time, I thought I knew the country.

Turns out I was completely wrong.

I'll do my budget and accommodations at the end. I would really like to tell this tough story.

A Story Of A Resilient Country

Flying in from Bangkok, I had almost no plans for my two weeks in the country. No flights booked. Nothing. I was supposed to stay 3 days before heading to Rakhine State, but that would soon turn out to be impossible (more on this in a bit).

For the first 7 days, my friend was there, and I was sucked into the world of nightclubs and more. The truth is that the club scene in Myanmar is electric, and more so since there is a (non-enforced) curfew from 1-4. People stay in the clubs. Certain 'substances' are done right in front of club managers. It's a free-for-all. Every day I said I would check out of the hotel, but it became impossible. Lost debit cards, lost credit cards. Sleeping at 8 am, up at 2 pm.

Okay, I went on a bender, and it finally came to an end when one night I decided to leave the Novotel (58 USD per night) and head up north. I had no plan in mind, but I wanted to drive to Tachiliek.

I booked a First Class Bus online at JJ Express for 28 USD (well, someone did since I lost all of my debit cards), and made my way to the bus station. My friend has given me 400 USD, but one issue. All the exchanges were closed on the weekends. With 0 Kyatt, I found a kind man who exchanged it with me on the street by the bus station.

The bus went overnight, and I ended up having a day in Mandalay. To me, I've seen it all already, so not a big deal, but this is the military stronghold in the north. They control and have created a palace inside the moat, and with air support, it's impossible to penetrate by any 'rebel groups' who dare.

Anyways, that afternoon we sat down with a taxi driver at a restaurant, and I informed him I wanted to drive to Tachiliek. He informed me it was impossible, so I asked if he could at least take me to Taunggyi. He said that it was possible (140 USD cash).

There are three roads to Taunggyi. One is the fastest, but technically, foreigners are not allowed due to it being an active conflict zone (it was last year with the SAA, not anymore), and while my driver didn't want to take me, I convinced him. I had driven this road, and it is the most beautiful road in the world, passing by Pagodas on mountains.

6.5 hours later, after stopping off at my friend's coffee shop in Heho, we arrived in Taunggyi. Airstrikes 20km away, 'rebels' 10 klicks out, Taunggyi is stable under military rule for now. However, after 4 hours of attempting to find a taxi driver, none would take me. Why? 5 Reasons:

• The Chinese are blocking access due to minerals in the region, and the military is just enforcing it.

• The military was on a 21-day counteroffensive in the region at the time.

• Only certain locals can actually drive this road. The way Myanmar works is you get a National ID, and depending on the first number, you are only allowed certain areas.

• Taxi drivers have been arrested, their cars taken away, and worse for driving even locals. And 20-30 checkpoints are alright, but there are 62 from Taunggyi to Tachiliek, including 3 big ones (1 being Hopong, which is 8 klicks away from the famous opium fields)

• Lastly, a foreigner needs a letter from the Chief Minister of Shan State in order to take this road. The same applies to other regions.

I inquired about flying, but you need a letter from a business to board the plane, and that can take weeks to obtain permission. Additionally, the land border is closed to the Golden Triangle at this time.

Now What?

Well, with all buses and flights sold out, my only option was to take the same road back to Mandalay. We visited the mountain of the woman on the way again, and 18 checkpoints later, and some beautiful views, I had arrived back in Mandalay (same price for taxi). Just one issue... Hotels were sold out.

Finally, I found one in Mandalay, went to a 'legit' massage parlor (none of them are in Mandalay really, even hotels...) and headed off to sleep.

But the next morning, a car was waiting (200 USD), as the night before, a friendly woman on Instagram had arranged a car to take me to Monywa, Sagaing. For those unaware, Sagaing is a hotspot in the civil war, but I had seen some of the beauty of the region, and I wanted to document it.

So we headed off, through Sagaing, through checkpoints that meant business. I've seen checkpoints in Somalia, Afghanistan, you name it. But these were like the Far Cry 4 outposts. Villages were checkpoints. Smoke burning, everyone in camouflage, snipers lined up. Machine guns. You name it.

And let's just say, the military wasn't the only ones we ran into on the road.

But Monywa was extraordinary. Nothing like it. It was honestly one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Not the sights. Not just "the locals were so nice to me", but the whole atmosphere. Man, A young man (changed name) called Pierce, came running after me, giving me a matching bracelet so I would remember him. Incredible.

See, Monywa used to be controlled by the 'rebels' until recently, when the military took it back over as their counter-offensive has taken the whole country by shock. Now they are looking for Eastern Sagaing (supposedly). Anyways, after spending most of the day there, and attempting to find a driver to take me all the way to Chin, I realized that it is time to leave.

I had to regroup, take more money, and come back when I am not drinking 15 beers per day. Lol. So we headed back to Mandalay, I stayed the night, hit up the original Pioneer, and took a flight out the next day to Bangkok.

A few more thoughts:

• There is virtually no crime if you are a foreigner here. I would never lock my doors, leave my phone in a club by accident, etc.

• You will pay at every single checkpoint outside of main cities. A few thousand Kyatt everywhere, but it can be more if you are not where you are supposed to be (up to 200,000 Kyatt).

• The people of Myanmar were nothing short of incredible. On my last day, I ran out of money, and some locals just kept buying me beer even after I said no 27,000 times. When I had my issue in Taunggyi, everyone was piling onto my instagram, calling people trying to help.

• This country is by far one of the hardest to travel in the world properly, especially now. It's honestly been easier for me to travel around South Sudan and the DRC than this. Flights are sold out for weeks. Power is constantly out. Buses only accept foreigners sometimes and only on certain routes.

• Not only that, it's expensive. If you want to do the 'touristy stuff', it's cheap. You can do hostels and buses between Yangon and Bagan, but to actually see the real Myanmar, it's going to cost you. Locals won't take you unless private, and I will easily spend 50$ a day in "tips".

A Breakdown

Visa- E-Visa is easy to get. Takes about 3-5 business days. Submit your whole stay for a hotel booking, not just 2 nights... Can be refundable.

Hotels- 4-star hotels all around the country at about 60 USD per night. Hostels for about 10$

Transport- Flights are 2-3x more expensive for tourists and sell out in advance. Book early. Additionally, MAI might not sell a seat online, but outside of Yangon and Mandalay, you are not allowed to book these seats at the airport, even though they are usually available.

Money Changing = Black market 100 USD-3.9 lak. Western Union 100 USD to 4,1 lak. Official 100 USD to 3.5 lak.

A Note: You must understand that Myanmar is the most beautiful country in SE Asia. I mean true beauty. No tourists coming in and ruining it. But with that comes a change of life. You see things which change you.

With that, I leave you. Not to recommend you visit, as everyone will have their own views. But if you do. Go and understand a country that has suffered for decades. Bring awareness, support local business, and most of all: show up with respect. In Myanmar, more than anywhere else, respect is the most sought-after quality.